Where the road meets the wild
The Yorkshire Dales are perfect for exploring by car as well as on foot. The area is vast, and driving offers a beautiful way to take it all in before diving deeper into smaller pockets of wilderness. Sometimes, I’ll head out and drive for an hour just to reach a spot; all the while surrounded by nature, not merely traveling to it, as we’re so often accustomed to.
The house I’m staying in happens to be situated right at the southern starting point of Buttertubs Pass. So, naturally, I had to buckle up and experience it! I stopped at nearly every layby along the way, hopping out for short walks and soaking in the views—pausing often to capture the rugged beauty. It made for an incredible outing.
At the end of the pass, I wasn’t sure what to do next. I could’ve turned back the same way, but curiosity got the better of me. I decided to follow the road ahead, winding through Thwaite and into the mountains toward Nateby. What I found was land—vast, endless stretches of it. Barren hilltops rolling on and on, occasionally cut through by a single, thin line—a road. From where I stood, the rare passing car appeared as nothing more than a tiny, moving speck against the immense landscape.
From Nateby, I looped back toward Hawes, passing a few wonderful waterfalls along the way. Many of the region’s waterfalls are only accessible through ticketed areas, but if you seek out the lesser-known ones, you’ll often be rewarded with stunning, uncrowded spots.
Here are three waterfalls along my route that are absolutely worth a visit:
Shortly after Thwaite (image below)
As you cross a narrow, old bridge, keep an eye out for a waterfall on your right. It’s easily accessible, with a layby nearby for parking. The falls are low and broad, cascading into the river with a gentle, beautiful flow. If you stop, just be mindful not to linger too long—the road is narrow, and the layby might be needed by passing cars.
Between Nateby and Hawes (image above)
Somewhere along this stretch, you’ll spot a large waterfall on your right. There’s a layby on the left where you can park and go out to explore the waterfall.
Just 1 mile further down the road (image below)
A little further down the road, you’ll see a cluster of cottages on your left. Right after them, you can turn onto a short lane and park your car. From there, walk over the railway bridge and head left. Soon, you’ll reach a breathtaking waterfall, said to drop around 100 feet (according to a local — I can’t measure these things with my eyes, so don’t hold me to it!)
If you’ve visited any of these spots, I’d love to hear about your experience. And feel free to share any hidden gems you’ve discovered along the way!
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