St. Ives

Heavy storm and horrendous rainshowers, all day long. That’s today’s forecast. Not fancying to be in the caravan all day, I decide to take a leap of faith in life. Observing the skies, I pick a dry moment and off I am, on a new adventure. After having driven hardly 10 kms, the skies darken so much that it feels like it’s nearly nighttime. Sure enough, not long after, the heavens burst open and rain and hail are hammering on the roof and the window of the car, limiting sight and causing all traffic to slow down to a mere 60 km/h on the highway.

Despite the darkness, I spot a light speck and even some blue every now and then and the skies seem brighter in the direction in which I’m driving. I got faith. It will all work out well. If the rain stays on, I could always adjust the plan and do a driving tour through the west of Cornwall.

It didn’t get that far. The closer I got to where I planned to go, the lighter the skies and a few miles before reaching my destination, the rain stops and the sun winks through the clouds, promising to show up in just a moment. Smiling, I think to myself: if it rains, just keep driving until you are where the sun shines.

St. Ives is a surprise. Having parked on top of the town, I walk down to the harbour through narrow and windy alleys, admiring the old houses and buildings that give me the feeling of walking back in time. By the time I get down to the heart of the town, I’m in the 17th century. Gevels, windows, doors, overhanging (first floors), remnants of a fortress … so many elements have been preserved.

I first explore the beaches and the harbour. It’s low tide and I can actually walk through the sandy harbour, what a fun. I get to a pier where I can watch over the aqua coloured ocean, waves forcefully rolling in and crashing on the pier. For a while I just stand there, looking at the horizon and admiring the sea. Then a very dark sky settles over the town, promising a heavy rainshower. People in St. Ives have experienced that before and have built a shelter against the remnants of a tower. I sit down on the bench and soon a dozen birds are joining me. They also feel that a new storm is coming and I realise they also look for shelter when the weather gets rough. Together we sit on the bench. The birds half-sleeping, me quietly admiring the water. The horizon has disappeared: sea and sky have merged by the rain curtain, waves crush on the shores even more forcefully, driven by the storm. I’m the only human out here, everyone is taking refuge in town. It feels peaceful to just sit in this secluded spot at the edge of the harbour, completely sheltered from wind and rain, whilst around us the storm is raging.

After a while the sun peeks through the clouds again, the rain has stopped and I say goodbye to the sleepy doves who are still enjoying some rest. An uphill cobble street leads me to a beautiful beach where the waves crush on the rocks and the sand with such force that it looks like fireworks made of water. Every wave is different. Some are higher than others and they flow in different directions. Thus every wave gives another effect and it is almost an addictive game to try to catch the highest wave with the biggest splash on camera. I spend quite some time here, impressed as I am by the force of the ocean. This is the first time in my life that I see such powerful waves this close and I want to keep watching forever.

Then suddenly I jump up and leave. It’s an interesting feeling that I always have on my adventures; a sudden intuitive urge that I need to get going. Sure enough, on looking back, it always works out as the perfect moment. This time I don’t have to wait long before it makes sense: a light rain starts to fall and so it’s time to hop in and out of the shops. The biggest fun in that is probably again the narrow streets and old buildings, that give me the feeling I’m in a 17th century shopping centre.

I finish the day in a very special way. St. Ives is home to the Bierhuis grand café; a pub serving real belgium beer and that is such a delight for this Dutch girl who loves Belgium beer. I get to try a special Christmas beer from the ‘secret cellar’ (I love that) and have a great time enjoying the beer in my cosy corner of the Bierhuis. Secret: I couldn’t resist to finish with a tasty Belgium waffle with banana, whipped cream, ice cream and caramel sauce .

When I’m nearly home, the skies darken once more. The heavens are about to burst but I know: only as soon as I’m indoors it will rain. And yes, the moment I step inside and close the door behind me, literally within seconds it poors with rain … time to lit the candles and write a story.